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Review: Hakkasan Hanway Place

Hakkasan

Hakkasan is a high end Chinese restaurant with 12 locations worldwide (and more opening). The Hanway Place outlet is hidden down a narrow street, away from the hustle and bustle of Oxford Road. The inconspicuous entrance leads you downstairs to the huge dining room, music pumping out, stylishly decorated as a modern teahouse, and filled with trendy diners and young wait staff. This isn’t your standard neighbourhood Chinese restaurant.

It’s hard to judge Hakkasan without comparing it to its sister restaurant, Yauatcha. The dim sum menu is basically identical, so you end up looking for little details to separate them. The siu mai were pretty much the same, both with a strong shiitake flavour. The har gow was good but the prawn filling was not as fresh as at Yauatcha and the wrapper was a little on the thick side. The filling and broth in the crab and pork xiao long bao were deliciously sweet with a subtle seafood flavour, but the wrapper was again a little on the thick side.

But what really let Hakkasan down was the service. At this price and with a Michelin star, you’d expect the service to be perfect. The young wait staff were friendly, but just lacked experience and attention to detail. After we sat down we were forgotten about for around 10 minutes before we were given menus. Perhaps more experienced staff are brought in for the evening service when Michelin inspectors are more likely to visit.

Food Score (out of 5) = 3.3
Service Score = 3.5
Environment Score = 4.5
Overall Score = 3.6

Time for food to arrive: 9 mins
Time for tea to arrive: 5 mins
Cost for 3 dishes + 1 tea: £21.30

Verdict: Decent dim sum in trendy environment but at this price point, go for its sister restaurant Yauatcha instead.

Hakkasan

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